3D Modeling and Design
The guitars and bass were all constructed in a similar manner, with 3D-printed pieces forming the majority of the structure. The realism is enhanced by incorporating real hardware for the string tensioning system (tuning pegs and strings), real fret wire, and a real guitar strap installed on real metal strap buttons. The pickups were 3D-printed, but had real magnets and screws added on top. In the bass, the bridge was also 3D-printed since the proportions of the real bass bridge didn’t fit with the design.
Joe’s bass was modeled in Autodesk Fusion 360 using reference images from the anime as well as several references of real guitars. The ornaments on the main body (large lower petals, small upper petals, silver plate, and buttons) were separated off the main body for easier finishing and painting. The bridge plate and pickup plates were also separated.
The neck was designed to be separable in the completed prop, so the connecting port on the body has slots for magnets. The fingerboard is separate from the neck, and registration keys were added along the interface between the fingerboard and neck. The fret markers are also separate pieces to simplify painting. The neck and fingerboard were split in half to fit on the print bed, and had registration pegs between the halves.
The ornament on the head of the guitar is separated so it can slide off. It stays in place with magnets.
To ensure proper fit and alignment, all of the real hardware was measured and modeled, adding appropriately sized holes and grooves to fit everything snugly.
3D Printing and Hardware Fitting
All of the components were printed in PLA plastic. The neck was too long for my printer and had to be split at the head - a registration key was added, and this was reattached with super glue after printing. The seam was filled using the filament welding method - raw filament was melted into the seam using a soldering iron with a knife tip, then sanded back to a smooth curve. All other pieces were able to (barely) fit and were printed whole.
After printing and support cleanup, the real hardware parts were briefly installed to ensure proper fit. The magnets were permanently installed into the neck-body separation slot, and the prop was tested for sturdiness and ease of separation. Hardware was then removed for surface finishing and paint.
Surface Finishing and Painting
All outer surfaces were finished with two coatings of XTC-3D, then sanded with 400-600 grit sandpaper.
Most parts were then airbrushed using Createx Auto Air Colors paints:
3 coats 6001 Autoborne Sealer White
1000 grit dry sanding to remove any texture
4-5 light coats of a 1 : 1 : 1 ratio mix of Candy2O, 4104 Quicksilver Chrome, and 4040 Bleed Checker
3 coats 4051 UVLS Satin Clear
To achieve a more chrome-like reflectivity, the bridge, bridge plate, and pickups were airbrushed with this method:
2-3 coats Rustoleum Gloss Black (allow to fully dry)
4 very light dust coats of 4104 Quicksilver Chrome
4 light coats of Candy2O
3 coats 4050 UVLS Gloss Clear
After paint was fully dried, pieces were assembled and hardware was reinstalled permanently.