Raw Fabrication
All parts were 3D printed with PLA plastic. They were then finished with sanding and filling with XTC-3D. Parts that will be painted with acrylic (metallic white and brown parts) were sanded to 400 grit before paint. Parts that will be painted with lacquer gloss black base (gold parts) were sanded to 1000 grit before paint.
Painting
The paint layering for each color is below.
Gold/Brass
3 coats Alclad Gloss Black Base
3 coats Alclad Polished Aluminium
3 coats Alclad Polished Brass
5 coats Createx UVLS Gloss Clear
3 coats 2K gloss clear coat (No-Name brand from Spraygunner)
Yellow Gold
These accents are all on the gold/brass color, so that is done first up through the UVLS gloss step
Mask off gold/brass areas
4 coats of mix 18 : 1 : 1 : 20 (Createx W357 Quicksilver : Createx Candy2O Lemon Yellow : Createx Candy2O Tequila Yellow : Createx Bleed Checker)
3 coats Createx UVLS Gloss Clear
Unmask
3 coats 2K gloss clear coat (No-Name brand from Spraygunner)
White or Brown Metallics
3 coats Createx UVLS Gloss Clear as primer
3 coats Createx Autoborne White Sealer
3 coats Createx Metallic White Fine or Metallic Dark Brown
3 coats Createx UVLS Gloss Clear
Sand with 2000 grit to remove any texture or dust
3 coats 2K satin clear coat (Zero Paints brand)
Resin Casting
The blade edge and small gem on the guard were resin cast to change their optical properties. LED lights were to shine through them, so these parts should be translucent and evenly diffuse light.
The blade and gem masters were clear coated with a 2k gloss and polished.
The gem mold is a simple one-part mold.
The blade mold is a matrix mold. The mold box was 3D printed and assembled around the blade master. Smooth-On Mold Star 30 silicone was then poured into the spout as show, sealing the vents as the level rises. After the silicone cures, the mold was flipped over and cut along the top side where the pour spout and vent holes are. The master was then removed from this cut which left a cavity to pour resin for the final part.
The blade and gem were cast with Smooth-On SmoothCast 326 with a small amount of opaque white and transparent blue pigments. The slight amber color of Part A was also neutralized with an extremely small amount of purple pigment before mixing. The blade was too large for pressure casting, so to remove bubbles the resin was briefly degassed before pouring. The design of the casted part allowed any residual bubbles to rise into the vents and registration inserts that are not visible in the final assembled sword.
